Once this method of plank and rib proved its worth towards creating the necessary forms with precision, the lower hull was then fashioned to match.

The upper and lower rakers were created using a master raker form, cast in urethane, to create enough numbers to make the entire run. Similarly, this method was used to create the side keels as well.

All other accessory patterns were created out of styrene, and then fitted with alignment pins made from brass. These pins held the patterns in place while the next phase of the construction process took over. Simply put, the rivets were "mapped" onto the surface using careful scale measurements, and by constantly checking the incredibly detailed original filming miniature photos we obtained from a known collector. These photos allowed us to match both the Port and Starboard sides of the submarine's surface, without having to simply "mirror" the Port side from the Starboard side's info.

The process of mapping took me a full week for the upper hull, and another full week for the lower hull. I mapped the wheelhouse in an afternoon, and spent the remainder of the month of June 2001, detailing all the accessory patterns.

The challenge, maybe I should say the chore, of placing all the rivets onto the surface was performed by Scott Brodeen. He patiently sat in his chair and mixed up small amounts of J. B. Weld to place all the rivets on - one a time, directly over my mapped dots.

As we let the rivets harden, the other minor accessory patterns were made up to finish off the front lower hull, as well as the rear lower fin. We also knew that we would have to design and create a stand to support the miniature, and double as an illusionary device to transmit the power without being so obvious.

My inspiration came from looking at wrought-iron buildings of the mid 1800s. My favorites were several old American bridges, but nothing compared to the majesty of the Eiffel Tower. It's lower curved filigree patterns were what got me onto devising an interesting yet lightweight component for tying the uprights together. Inside the filigree, can be seen a repeating "N" for Nemo.

We decided to place this blackened wrought-iron stand on a Mahogany stained piece of Red Oak. The combination is classy, yet not overbearing to the color of the submarine, which is a much darker chocolate brown with rust highlights and black stains for the shadows.

Our interim concern during all of this was that the patterns would eventually become a "mold only" stand-in for the actual miniature. Fiberglass jacketed RTV ( silicone rubber ) molds were created so that a lightweight fiberglass casting of the ship could be obtained. All the accessory parts were cast out of urethane resin.

The fiberglass shell and resin accessory parts were then cleaned up and placed upon the pre-built stand. The power plugs into the rear of the lower fin's "phosphoric atomizer". 

We purchased a light kit from Light Sheet and employed it in the salon side lights to keep the area very thin and flat behind these openings. Space is at a premium in this area, so the Light Sheet in white worked very well. The only cosmetic change was to add a yellow gel to warm up the otherwise cold blue of the lights.

The upper alligator eyes are the only tungsten type bulbs used in the miniature, to add a warm contrast to the cool blue other lights. The interior of the wheelhouse has 2 super bright white LEDS to illuminate the inner stage.

Click here to visit our website store to see our offer on a custom made 66" Nautilus miniature assembly kit 

Click here to see the R/C conversion of the 66" Nautilus miniature assembly kit  

Coming soon! - 66" Nautilus Photo CD. The entire production process of this miniature recreation project in photo portfolio format - coming in June 2007!